First I mounted the firewall/avionics/panel ground tab that I purchased from B&C.  I bought the 24/28 tab ground block.  It's ok to have too many but running short is not fun.  I fabricated a stiffener plate.  I didn't rivet it to the firewall.  But I did add a third bolt where it seems one should be to keep it immobile.  It's approximately where Vans indicates it should be.

Next I decided to fabricate a small shelf to place the main, endurance and battery busses.  Most builders are mounting them vertically on the sub panel.  But what a waste, in my situation, I have these awesome access panels.  And If a fuse does blow I want to be not only able to replace it but to see what I'm doing.  I made a couple of angles which would stiffen it up.

Test fit.

Rivet that sucker.

Here I only have the main and endurance sitting on the shelf, with the diode, just for visualization.

The E-bus is connected with the Master bus with the diode I purchased from B&C.

Drilled the two holes for the AOA momentary pushbuttons above the AOA display.

Next we installed the B&C LR3C-14 voltage regulator on the sub panel close to the avionics stack.  The standby regulator goes on the opposite side of the radio stack.

Mounted the transponder antenna, a Comant shark fin style just after the center section in the first bay to the right of the centerline.  The Transponder antenna and Com are separated by several feet so there should be no problems.

Now the real pain in the side.  Mounting the crotch strap kit from Vans for the 5-point seatbelt harness.  Everything would work out according to the plans if you use Vans (much more expensive) seatbelts.  I'm using Team Rockets belts.  They are much better in my opinion.  Problem is that the webbing is thick than Vans so you have to take that into consideration when mounting.  I fabricated a wooden spacer plate to fit the webbing thickness and use it between the front and aft brackets to make sure it fits.  Make sure the tops of the brackets are level!  If you move the aft bracket back a little from the plan specs and the front bracket a little fore it fits nicely and you have plenty of hole clearance for the nutplates on top of the brackets.  My spacing was 3/8.  Probably overkill but it works.  Oh, and getting those pop rivets in place, not to mention drilling the holes is a, lets just call it tough.  Do it then have a beer.

GRT OAT sensor is not located just outboard of the left side fuel vent pickup.  I unibit the hole until it was a snug fit and then buttered it into place with proseal.  No pictures but I also prosealed the firewall recess.  I just stuck a good gob of the stuff into the holes and cracks.  Also buttered up the bottom skin where it meets the gear weldments.

More wiring runs and the first of the ground connections.  I picked up an awesome wire label machine a while ago.  It's a K-Sun 2001 XLST which I purchased from Image Supply for around $300 bucks, I don't remember exactly now.  This thing is a work of beauty.  You really should check this out if you want a machine printing your shrink-wrap labels instead of the old fashioned "by-hand" method.  I would list all of it's features but just do the homework for yourself and make the determination if the cost is justified.  For me it is because I label everything and every wire.

Next I had to fabricate a longer plate which the control cables are routed to under the sub panel.  My panel is about 2 inches deeper than the standard panel and the cables were going from the panel up to the sub panel then downwards.  The mixture cable was a bit short so extending this part make it fit perfect.

First thing you do is read, read, read.  Then calculate, calculate, calculate then start running wires, one at a time, labeling each appropriately.  It all looks very confusing but you get the hang of it after a few weeks.  Once these bundles are wrapped properly it will look like art.  Here are some of the documents I was messing with today.

And here are some of the results.  Not done yet by any stretch of the imagination.  Maybe these pictures will help, probably not since each of us is going to do this quite differently depending upon what you have in your bird and the electrical system you design.

Here's what's left on the floor.  Looks like a wire barbershop.

Next all the final power runs were made for the instrument panel items.  It sure was nice to see all these lit up.  Look, can you see the light at the end of the tunnel???

Ran the wires for the B&C 60A alternator and the power feed for the main bus.  It gets it's own firewall pass-through.  It's the smaller of the wires in the leftmost pass-through of the last picture.

Here you can see the battery contactor and starter contactor wires as well as the blue donut.

Davtron clock get power.  I decided against a dimmer.  I can add it later if needed but the clock gets power from the battery bus to maintain time and gets backlight power from the main bus when powered up. 

The ground tab is getting fuller.  One thing to note here is that you should get the biggest ground tab you can, get the 48 point ground tab.  Trust me, if you have fat fingers like me you are NOT going to be able to use every row.  There just isn't enough room to get your fingers in there to shove the spade on.  I use alternating rows to enable my fingers to get a hold of the spade and shove it on.  Now if you have a vacuum system... shame on you.

Hobbs meter wired to the hobbs pressure transducer.  I haven't figured out how I'm going to mount the hobbs pressure transducer.  I've got an idea and I'll show you later.

Main bus, battery bus and E-bus getting more stuff.

Alternate B&C alternator all wired up.  Here you can see the Field and B wires coming back to the engine mount and then they route along the right side of the firewall.